Dancing

The ladies, ready for their final performance.

Dancing looks so simple, but is really complex as your hands and feet move in opposite directions.  This is very difficult because you move your arms with your  legs, the opposite of the way you would naturally walk (with your left arm and right foot forward, then your left foot and right arm forward).  It’s difficult to change something that occurs naturally.  The dancing also involves the whole body, and every part of your body is constantly moving, your feet, hips, arms, hands, shoulders, head and neck. Like drumming, dancing is not necessarily how good you are but how good you feel while doing it.  Dancing is about the feeling; the more relaxed you are the easier it will come to you.

The men ready for the final performance.

They dance flat-footed, which is very different to more western/European styles where dancers are on the balls of their feet.  There is also a lot of hip shaking.  Dancing was always very fun!

I am so happy that the one thing I can say about Africa is that I have no regrets!

Drumming

Drumming is all about the rhythm.  Playing the drum is not solely based on your best regurgitation of the patterns and sequences of hitting the skin, but more importantly about the feeling of the rhythm.  For example, when I became only focused on getting my rhythm correct, I became lost in my playing.  Eventually I was no longer in sync with the group.  Once I stepped back and focused on the group’s actions, I was able to rejoin and ‘feel’ the rhythm.  The more relaxed I became with my playing, the easier it was to play the drum.

Drumming at Kokrobite.

Getting ready to drum at the University of Ghana.

When learning the song, I was playing my own ‘variation’ (which Johnson said was wrong.)  Johnson was correct; you cannot create a variation until you understand how the drumming rhythm works.  Once you understand it, then you can manipulate it, because you still need to maintain the rhythm and not confuse the dancers and other drummers when playing.

Mustapha Tettey Addy

After watching Mustapha Tettey Addy play at Kokrobite, drumming finally made sense today!  Watching Mustapha Tettey Addy drum, and watching the supporting drummers all play, allowed me to appreciate the complexities and the subtleties of the art of drumming.  The dynamics of each piece, with the dynamics of softness and the loud through the expression of the artist have gave me greater understanding of how drumming works and altered my perception of the music.  I can officially say that I now enjoy listening to drum music because it is no longer a jumble of noise, but a very complex system of distinct rhythms.

Drumming is also about the offbeat, I don’t think anything was ever played on the “on beat”, and rhythms usually are not played t

The Diviner

The decision to visit the diviner was a difficult one.  I am becoming more open to new cultural experiences, but I was initially concerned with my own spiritual beliefs and ‘witchcraft’.  As a catholic, it is a sin to practice another religion and ‘worship other idols’.  That is not what the diviner is/does!  For myself, the diviner was able to aid in the spirits and please my ancestors, and help solve any outstanding issues with them.  The sacrifice, at the shrine will please them and a higher power, but the use of the word ‘God’ was never used, and this is not worshipping another god. 

There were 2 people in the room, the diviner and his assistant.  I whispered to my 10 cedi what I would like answers to my troubles.  He then took the money, waved the beaded strings over it and covered it with a cloth and hit it 3 times.  When he removed the cloth he said the spirit that was going to communicate was Tool-ba-gouda (phonetically spelt).  Then I had to hold all the tokens in my hands (representing Death, A case, Bad luck, The forces/spirits and Business, sickness, depression, hunger), divide them, and he dropped/laid out the beaded string and told me which hand to drop.  Eventually the one left was bad luck (a white square shaped rock), related to business, caused by nature (white shell), particularly a human being.  I was then handed a larger brown-red-black token, which represented “no”.  This brown stone was laid for a man, and the diviner asked if it was a woman.  This seemed very bizarre, as I don’t know what other sort of person it could be!  Anyways, after a few more questions, the answer came out that it was Kendra and that we should not be together because she is my source of bad luck.   This can apply to the present and the future, so as the business problem may not make sense now, it will/may be applicable to the future.

The forces were not happy with me, and it was not caused by the food I was eating (so I am fine to eat groundnuts and chicken).  It was also discovered that the forces are unhappy with me, as there was a vow made when I was in the womb, before I was born that I have not fulfilled.  To appease the ancestors I must pour libation for my dead father, and pay/donate 12 cedi to the shrine as well as schnapps and sacrifice a chicken (I’m glad it wasn’t a goat…).

Kendra was unable to find out her divination right away, as others needed to talk with them, as a priest from the shrine sent other people to the diviner because they needed this type of answer before the priest would be able to assist them.

When Kendra was able to have her divination completed, it was very eerie how the same spirit for me was also for her.  There is a 1 in 256 chance of having any spirit to communicate through, and she happened to have the same one.  Of those who are skeptical, I’ll let you think what you want. 

In the end, it was discovered that we are safe to be and travel together as she will not cause me too much bad luck, just in ‘business’ (so I guess my divination was slightly off, but at least we have that cleared up now!).  Kendra also had not pleased the ancestors, and when asked if she should make the same sacrifice I do, the answer was yes. 

Our divinations were also very similar, with only a few rows that did not match. Prof. Michael had described the process earlier in the day as a double-blind study, which is an excellent analogy.  The odds of us having such similar divinations can only provide evidence for those who are skeptical of the power of spirits and ancestors. 

After her divination was finished, Prof. Michael took us over to discuss logistics with Kwasi, about how to obtain the chicken, schnapps, and how to pour libation.  The pouring of libation will occur tomorrow (with a 3 cedi bottle of liquor), and we will give our money for the chickens (7cedi).  We then must donate 12 cedi to the shrine, and schnapps (5 cedi) as well.  A small price to pay to please the forces and decrease my bad luck!  To end off the night, we of course, drank Red.  It still remains such a mysterious substance- but it is a communal drink.

Explaining why we need to pour libation.

Pouring libation

On August 5, we poured libation for my father.  It was very fitting, and nice.  We had to ‘kneel’ before the elder who prays for deceased spirits.  And tell him what we were there for.  He then went around to all the people present, and everyone drank a shot of the clear alcohol (most likely palm-wine based).

So we then held on to calabash and an elder poured the mixture as well as a shot of alcohol on the ground.  It was a good feeling.  I don’t know if I was supposed to feel anything, but it was a liberating feeling to do this, and complete this step. 

Eyie, Dashie, Wetsa and Egbo

On August 6, I received my “Ewe name”. Kendra, Sherri and I participated in the naming ceremony.  We were told to be at the Stool House for 6:30 as the ceremony was scheduled between 6 and 7.  At 8, the ceremony got underway (I love Africa time!).  There were many people present.  It was great to feel like a member of their community.  Initially Kendra said to me "I hope I didn’t just pay 25 cedi to find out I’m Yetsa"… but we did.  My name is Eyie (pronounced Eye-ee), and Kendra is Wetsa (in English because we do not have the squiggly-x/y symbol so this is how they said we should spell it).  Libation was poured for the spirits (facing the west), then for the ancestors (in the East).  We then had Coke, and a shot of the white alcohol… all before 9 am!  Definitely the breakfast of champions.  We also wrote our names in a book that will be placed in the Stool House. 

Kwasi gave us our names on a piece of paper.  It was interesting because he knew which twin I was.  When I asked him later how he knows who is Eyie and who is Wetsa, he said he “just knows”; the spirits told him and he “just knows”.  I don’t understand how he can “just know” after such a short time.  My mother occasionally calls us the wrong name, so how can a person who met us a week ago know who we are? 

The 'twin' beads. People in the village did
recognize the beads, particularly other twins.

The Dashie (who is said to be over 100) said that she was going to go to the Akatsi market to pick up our beaded bracelet because there are special twin beads.  With a name you receive a beaded bracelet.  

The feeling of belonging was overwhelming.  I am now a member of the village; this is my village.  This is my 2^nd home.  It was well worth the 25 cedi. 

The following day we attended another funeral and Dashie wanted us to borrow some of her traditional cloths, as we are now members of the village.  At her house, she brought out a wrap full of cloth, and majority of them were Kente woven.  It was beautiful and so unique.  She then pulled out a large rice bag, half filled with necklaces and bracelets.  It was very heavy.  Once we chose our cloth, we picked new necklaces.  She gave Kendra and I the same, as twins should wear the same, and be together (we also wore the same cloth).  It was such a great experience, similar to going through grandma’s jewellery box and closet and picking out a favorite outfit.  Seeing her so happy to allow us to borrow these items was extraordinary.  Dashie does not speak English, so it makes it very difficult to communicate, but we are getting better at reading body language and guessing what she is saying.  Its amazing how with non-verbal communication, you are still able to sometimes have an idea of what is being said.

Our borrowed funeral cloth from Dashie.

The Village of Dagbamete

Yie, me, Kendra and Yetsa.

All I can say is that this was by far the highlight of my Ghana experience. We attended 2 more funerals, and witnessed shrine rituals involving animals and sacrifices. I cannot go into detail on these events as anyone who read this would most definitely get a negative idea about what happens at the shrine.

In the village, there were many children all wanting to look at my camera, or for me to buy them candy.  Once they discovered I would not buy them candies, they did not ask anymore. Leaving the lodge at anytime of day, I was sure to be able to hold the hand of a child for the distance of wherever I was walking to.  It was unbelievable how friendly everyone in the village was!

Feel very welcome in Dagbamete. It's a calmness that is difficult to describe.  When Kwasi said if we have any questions or problems and he is not around, to ask anybody else, and truly, everyone was willing to help.  Walking through the village was nice a nice change from the busy city of Accra. 

After we were led on a tour of the village, we sat with Kwasi and were offered drinks of  “Red”.  It was pretty awful tasting, but had a strange sense of familiarity at the same time.  It burned and kept my insides warm for a while. 

Speaking to the children, they all have excellent English and grammar!  I have learned to speak in complete, grammatically correct sentences, as it avoids any confusion with the people I talk to, as sometimes they do not understand if I end the sentence with the word ‘it’.  I have also tried to cut down on my use of the word “like”, as it is unnecessary and I feel that it confuses everyone I have encountered in the previous weeks.

On July 30, we were told that in the  afternoon we would go to community drumming.  We finally left (in the late afternoon), after having to hurry and go buy a piece of cloth from Angelina, as we needed a wrap to wear. It turns out that were attending a funeral.  What a surprise. We danced and  I felt like my aba dza is improving, but I still have a long way to go before people will no longer laugh at me while I do it.

While at the shrine on August 1, while witnessing the rituals, Akpenii’s (a lday that invited me to sit with her) son was crying, and the lady in front of her gave him a swift smack to make him be quiet.  It truly does take a village to raise a child.  I just thought, in Canada if you laid our hand on someone else’s child, you would be in serious trouble.  But here it is common, if your child does wrong, discipline is needed.  It makes sense to me!

Atsu and his mother

Godsway took us to meet two-month old twin boys.  Twins are very special, in the Ewe culture.  After approximately one week, they were given their names (Atsu and Etse). The mother was unaware that she was having twins, as she delivered the first child and "the womb did not come out", and then the second boy arrived, and then the womb came out.  We found out that there is no (or very little) medical intervention.  The babies were born at the house, and there were no "scans" completed throughout any portion of the pregnancy. As the children get older, and are able to be carried on their mother's back, the mother will have to find a helper as they are not able to carry more than one baby on their back at a time.  God's Way asked us which twin we thought was older.  I guessed the 'bigger' baby was older, as many people have told us that Kendra looks like the Kakra (in the Twi language) or Yetsa (pronounced Yet-cha in Ewe) because she is a bit bigger.  Sure enough, it is true:  the 'smaller' baby was the older one.  The babies also were not wearing diapers as they had recently been circumcised, which occurs at any time the parents choose it to happen. 

On the topic of diapers, Godsway said that children wear diapers until they are approximately one year old, or a little bit older.  It made me wonder why 2 and 3 year olds in Canada still need diapers. Looking at the differences between Africa and Canada, if a child needs to use a toilet, it is more acceptable in Africa to go wherever, where in Canada you need to find a toilet to use.  Also the amounts of clothing children in Africa wear is much less than what is required in Canada. Many wear shorts and a shirt, or a dress with underwear, whereas in Canada many children wear much thicker and heavier clothes, requiring more dexterity to remove prior to using a toilet.

Children carrying the books and slates into the school.

The table of books we donated to the school.  

After our morning drumming and dance lesson on August 4, we presented the books we donated at the school.  It feels so good doing that, after hanging out with the kids for the past week, it is good to know that them or their siblings will be able to learn and hopefully achieve a higher education.  It’s something I take for granted.  It’s amazing how inexpensive the books seem compared to what it would cost in Canada.  The managing committee of the school was present as well as the assistant supervisor of what I understood to be the school district.  Seeing all the books laid out on the table, and how excited the kids were to carry them into the school made my day!  As good as it felt to donate, it feels even better to know that we were able to make a difference in hopefully many children’s futures.  

Technology

During a lecture with Prof. Dzameshie, the power went out.  His response was “welcome to the third world”.   The minor power outage did not bother me; it was the heat that took over without the use of the fans, even for a few minutes.  I don’t know how I could ever survive in Ghana without a fan!  Another power outage occurred in the middle of the night while in Tamale. Kendra and I had thought that the other turned the fan off because they were cold.    Luckily there were large windows in he room, and the sunrises at 6am.  It was a unique experience showering in the dark that morning,  but sometimes you do what you have to do!  I would have showered the previous night but someone in our group took a 30-minute shower that evening and there was very little water pressure.  I don’t understand how someone could take a cold shower for 30 minutes…

Practically everyone in Ghana has a cell phone.  No one has a landline, and all the pay phones I encountered were out of order, and appeared to not have been used for quite a while. Cell phone etiquette is very different from in Canada. Prior to the presentation of the books we donated to the school,, Michael’s phone rang, and he answered it and said that he would call the person back as he was busy.  In the middle of the assistant supervisor person’s speech, the speaker’s phone rang and he answered it!!  It is funny that everyone answers their cell phone regardless of what they are doing.  Kwasi even answered his cell phone at the shrine on Sunday.  It is just very different from the etiquette I have learned.

Mole National Park

Kendra and I with the elephants by the staff residence.

Warthogs!

We completed a walking safari in the morning. We saw elephants, cobbs, waterbuck and bushbuck.  So pretty much, we saw elephants and antelope!  It was awesome.  Elephants were at a small watering hole where they were playing and bathing.  African animals never cease to amaze me.  It was very hot out during our walking safari.  I am now convinced why Ghanaians tend to walk slow (to my standards).  Walking fast makes you hot and sweaty and is a waste of energy.  Maybe slow walking contributes to the use of African time? 

A beautiful African sunset.

Kejite Market in Kumasi

Some of the meat (top of picture) and peppers for sale

Some of the many wares for
sale at the market

All I can say about this market is that it is like Wal-mart on steroids in Africa.  It was divided into different sections, home improvement (with rope, shovels, hoes, hammers, saws, broom), food (raw red meat, fish, vegetables, yams, fruits, shoes (tons of shoes, flip-flops, heels, flats, running shoes, sandals) and clothing (kids, adults, women, cloth, blue jeans, dress shirts, dresses of all styles, belts, etc.).  It also reminded me of West Edmonton Mall because it was huge and easy to get lost in.  I was overwhelmed by the shear amount of stuff and people.  All the vendors yelling, “Obruni, I give you a good deal” was common.  Although I did not need a shovel, piece of meat or running shoes, I wanted to buy was a lanyard with Ghana on it, and that was the only thing I did not find at the market!  Getting out of the market seemed to take forever, but then I am bad with directions and get lost easily.

Bonwire Kente Weaving

The thread used to weave the cloth.

All the Kente cloths to choose from.

We stopped at a kente-weaving village.  We were ushered into a building where many looms were set up, with many different cloths for purchase on the walls.  It was very overwhelming, all the cloth and colors!  Watching the weavers work with such small thread, weaving it into such beautiful patterns.  Each pattern has a meaning, which they study and learn to create.  Most of the men weaving said they began weaving when they were young, around 12 years of age.  There were no women present as weaving is traditionally men’s work, but they did say that women do weave there.  We were told that it takes 3 days to make a single strip of cloth, and 5 days to make a strip with a triple design.  

Food

The "night market" close to the hostel.  This is where we would buy our egg sandwiches, pineapple and wakeye and jollof in the evening.  

Fried plantain and palava sauce

Ghanaian food is quite the mix of flavors. There is usually a starch and a protein, and that constitutes a meal. There is lots of plantain, yam, rice (plain, jollof, fried, wakeye, omotuo), beans, banku, fufu, Tuo Zaafi , kenkey, palava sauce, red sauce, fried chicken, okro stew and ground nut soup.    Much of the food is cooked in oil, and tends to be served with tomato-based sauces.  It was delicious. Half the adventure was trying all the new foods. 

Chicken, rice and a tomato based sauce with onions, cabbage, peppers and beans.

It is also, literally, a mix of flavors. Most of the soups/stews are fish based (so there are occasionally small fish bones in the bottom of the bowl).  With these fish based soups/stews, you can usually get your choice of meat, either goat, chicken, beef of bush meat/”grass cutter”. 

Palava sauce and ampesi (boiled yam)

One of the many stands to buy food.

Omotuo (rice ball) in groundnut (peanut) soup

Walking to class in the morning was always a joy, as Kendra and I would stop and buy a fried egg sandwich and a 1 cedi pineapple (approximately 70 cents), for our morning snack.  It was the most delicious pineapple I have ever eaten, it was so fresh, along with all the other fruit available.  I think I enjoyed the food so much because it was cheap!  For less than 5 cedi a day, I could eat 3 meals, as well as a large amount of fruit.

I also love eating bananas in Ghana.  They are fresh and cheap!  At the night market on campus, I would pay 50 pesewas for 3 bananas (but they would usually throw in a 4^th because Kendra and I are twins).  At the building outside the classroom, we paid 20 pesewas for 2, and at Shop-rite I was able to get 8 for 49 pesewas.  Out of the bus window, on the way to Tamale, Tori  was able to pay 20 pesewas for 6.  I guess it pays to get out of the city.  

The Castles: Cape Coast and Elmina

Cape Coast Castle

Visiting Cape Coast and Elmina Castles was a very interesting experience, encompassing a whole gamut of emotions.  Both are beautiful castles, with beautiful views of the ocean. 

Dungeons at Cape Coast Castle

The emotional part comes in the dungeons, when you let your mind take over and imagine what the thousands of people experienced as they waited in the dark damp dungeons, living in their own excrement, without food or water.  Sadness takes over; this was their reality, with no idea of what was to happen, or when things would happen.

The "Door of No Return" at Cape Coast Castle

The "Door of No Return"
at Elmina Castle

A sense of relief occurred as we left the male and female slave dungeons and went to the “Door of No Return”.  We were exposed to sunlight, and a beautiful view of the ocean.   It’s difficult to imagine that from here this door, the slaves were packed tightly onto ships to go to other places. 

Exploring the castles was fun, as there were beautiful room and views throughout.  At the same time, it is eerie to think that while people lived above in wealth, the slaves lived below in squalor.  

Ghana Time

I wonder if they teach how to tell time in schools, or if the just “wing it”.  What I have learned as  “Africa time” (as I witnessed it in East Africa as well) is a unique time zone of its own.  Things happen when they happen.  When something is scheduled to start, it will most likely start after that time, by at least 20 to 60 minutes.  But you get used to it.  There is no rush to go anywhere fast; in the end we will get there, regardless of the time.

Buduburam Refugee Camp

Buduburam Refugee Camp

It was very interesting seeing the refugees and the musicians from the “Giving Voice to Hope” CD.  Unfortunately, many of them wanted my contact information, and a few marriage proposals slipped out as well.  It is difficult to tell these refugees that if they come to Canada, their life will not improve.  At the same time, it is difficult seeing what the have been through.  It’s a humbling experience.

Shadow''s Recording Studio

We were able to go for a walk through the camp.  It reminded me of other African villages/towns I have visited, with the exception that everyone who lived there is a refugee.  There are many signs throughout the camp of different organizations that have supported the building of a project or structure.  All in all, the cleanliness of the whole camp exceeded my expectations.  I imagined it to be a World Vision commercial, with kids with big tummies crying, and having flies all around them, but it clearly was not.

Inside Shadow's studio.

We were able to visit Shadow’s studio.  All I could see was the room for recording, and the other small area with a computer.  It was a very small and simple studio, but it works for him and the other artists.  It is amazing at what they is able to accomplish with so little.

Overall, the inspiration and aspirations of the artists was overwhelming.  I feel that those I talked to only want world peace, they do not ask for anything for themselves, but for the good of all the people they know.  They are all very genuine in their quest to better the lives of others, and give back.

The Fun in Funeral

Ghana puts the “fun” in funeral!  They are not the typical somber, black-attire affairs we commonly have in Canada.  There is singing and dancing, and it lasts all afternoon (not to mention the other rituals that have taken place in the previous weeks and days!)

The women clap and dance, and respond to the call of the songs.  

There is singing at the funeral, and it is lead by the people in the middle, who carry horse tails!

All the women were dressed in beautiful Sunday outfits; depending on the funeral, some wore white (for an older person) while others wore red or black (for a younger person). Some men wore cloth, while others wore suits, or even blue jeans and wrapped a cloth around them prior to dancing. We were wore a piece of cloth tied around our waist, over our regular clothing.     

The dancing appears to be bizarre. It is very similar to the funky chicken, and yes, I did feel as ridiculous doing the dance as I would if I did the funky chicken at home. The dancing involved shrugging/thrusting of the shoulders and back, while moving my feet to the beat (which I could never find). You also need to move your elbows in and out, like a chicken.  To end the dance, the person who invited you to dance will lean to the right, left, back and then front, and throw their arms in the front, then repeat all these movements, or just some of them to signify the end.  It is all very individualistic.  Some people would ask us to dance and then pull us towards the back, where others were sitting in rows of chairs.  As we would dance, the people were laughing, and pointing at us. It did not help that we were a source of entertainment for some of the people at the funeral. Eventually, I got over this idea when I realized that the dancing is important to ensure that the spirit has a happy journey to the spirit world.  

One of the many obituary 'ads' posted on a wall.  Obituaries are placed on walls, and posts, commonly on posters with color.

The Tro-tro/ “Magic School Bus”

Tro-tros are vehicles used as public transportation.  They generally consist of a driver and a type of manager, who opens and closes the door and calls out what the upcoming stop will be.   They transport over twenty people at one time, and effectively take them where they need to go.  Our tro-tro, which we affectionately named “the magic school bus”, was somewhat of a unique experience.  It was yellow and had some mechanical difficulties.  Akufo, the “doorman” was usually successful in getting the door closed on the fourth or fifth time. 

This brings up the question of safety and the transportation system of Ghana.  Firstly, as we fuelled up at the gas station, the engine was left running, as it was easier to leave the engine running than to risk the vehicle not starting.  The tro-tro had difficulty starting many of times. Occasionally it was parked on a hill to increase its chances of starting. 

When we were at Big Milly’s at Kokrobite, it took more than 3 times to start.  It would not have been too embarrassing, but there were many people sitting at the bar watching.  It was quite a humorous situation!

This is our "Magic School Bus".

Secondly, the roads in Ghana can leave you in a bumpy situation.  Many roads are paved, but there are numerous potholes that must be avoided;  compared to Canada, they are pretty bad (I would say worse than streets with really bad potholes).   It's amazing some of the vehicles on the road are allowed to drive- I don't know if they pass inspections- but some are pretty run down.  Although the nation drives on the right hand side of the road (like in Canada), it is usually a bumpy trip down “whichever side appears to be smoother”. 

While driving, the rules appear to be this:  don’t get in an accident.  Vehicles (even large buses) will pass going up a hill or around a blind corner.   I also observed drivers passing on the shoulder, passing on a solid line and other infractions.  Our driver would even remove his seatbelt, and then put it back on a short time later. No one slows down for anything.  I have also noticed the same rules for honking.  You honk your horn if you are passing, if you are not stopping, if you want the pedestrian to cross the street, if you want the pedestrian to remain on the curb, if you want to say hi or if you have no reason in particular and just like the sound of the horn.  I was amazed that there were not any more accidents.  There were also no seatbelts in the tro-tro…. But all in all it was a wonderful experience!

This was the tro-tro we took one night, as the yellow one was in need of some repair.